Mukaish, also known as Mukaish Kari or Badla Work, is a traditional embroidery technique from Lucknow. It involves inserting and twisting thin metallic threads—originally silver or gold—into fabric to create glimmering patterns. Often combined with Chikankari, it enhances the aesthetic appeal of garments.
Mukaish work originates from the Awadh region, particularly Lucknow. Its roots are ancient, with some sources tracing it back to the 3rd century BCE.
Traditionally, real silver or gold threads were used. Today, cost-effective metallic-coated threads have replaced the originals, making the craft more accessible.
Metallic strips are inserted into the fabric with a needle and then twisted to form motifs. These may appear as uniform dots or elaborate shapes like stars, leaves, or geometric lines.
Because it originally used real gold and silver threads, Mukaish was historically associated with royalty and nobility, often adorning festive and ceremonial attire.
Mukaish adds sparkle and dimension to Chikankari’s delicate threadwork. The white-on-white base of Chikankari is subtly uplifted by the metallic shimmer of Mukaish.
Yes, Mukaish continues to embellish sarees, lehengas, and kurtas. Modern designers have adapted it for contemporary fashion, including dresses, jackets, and accessories.
With rising production costs and a decline in skilled artisans, Mukaish faces challenges to survival. Revival efforts include:
While both use metallic threads, Zardozi involves surface embroidery using thick gold threads, whereas Mukaish embeds thin metallic strips within the fabric for a more subtle shine.
“A nation that values its artisans never loses its culture. Future administrators must protect and promote crafts like Mukaish as living legacies of our civilisational richness.”
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